Hair Color
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10.22.2024
Color Correction Nightmares: 5 Techniques to Fix the Fright
By: Jaclyn Harwood
As a salon professional, you've likely encountered your share of hair colors gone wrong - clients who have tried at-home techniques or less-than-ideal salon results, done elsewhere. Color corrections are one of the most challenging services, requiring not only technical skill, but time, patience and creativity. Whether it's uneven tones, brassiness, too light, too dark, or banding caused by color overlap, these salon "nightmares" can feel overwhelming. But with the right techniques, even the most daunting color mishaps can be transformed into beautiful salon results. The key is knowing how to assess the situation and choose the appropriate corrective technique. Understanding underlying pigments, porosity, product choice, placement and timing are essential. With a thoughtful approach, you can guide your salon guest through the process and bring their hair back to life. Follow along as we explore 5 of the most effective ways to correct those hair color "horrors" and restore beautiful, healthy hair.
#1: CLEANSE + TREAT
Cleansing the hair is an essential step when it comes to color correction. Remove product buildup, balance pH levels, improve color adhesion, stabilize porosity and extend color longevity. Over time hair may accumulate unnecessary oils, minerals and product residue to create a barrier that prevents color from penetrating the hair effectively. Schedule time for a pre-treatment prior to any color correction scenario and kickstart your results.
Reach for Wella Professionals Elements Renewing Shampoo to reveal the hair’s natural shine and gently remove buildup. Apply, lather, and cleanse all areas of the headform, focusing on the hairline to remove any additional residue from makeup or perspiration. Rinse and follow with the Elements Renewing Mask. Restore moisture, balance porosity and transform the hair from dull and dry, to soft and silky. Blowdry the hair and proceed with the color correction service. Limited on time? No stress. Retail the recommended shampoo and conditioner to your salon guest and instruct them to cleanse and hydrate prior to their arrival.
Next, add a quick treatment to your salon service with Wella Professionals Color Motion+ Pre-Color Treatment. Balance uneven porosity and prepare the hair canvas for beautiful color results. HOW TO APPLY: Spray Wella Professionals Color Motion+ Pre-Color Treatment on dry, unwashed hair, concentrating on porous ends. Dry with a blowdryer and proceed with color application. We love the soft, floral fragrance and quick application time!
#2: HOW TO FIX COLOR THAT IS "TOO LIGHT"
One of the most common color correction nightmares to walk into the salon is a guest with haircolor that is "too light". Whether it lacks dimension, lightened "too much" over time or the hair was simply "too light" for the clients expectations, reach for Wella Professionals Shinefinity Zero Lift Glaze to remedy the result. Shinefinity is suitable for every hair type from fine and fragile to course and dry, delivering a healthy, never artificial, shiny finish, conditioning while it works. The perfect match for salon guests who need a color fix, but fear additional damage and breakage.
Shinefinity is carefully designed to maintain an optimal pH level, conditioning the hair as it works. It begins with a mildly alkaline pH, helping the cuticle swell, allowing the color in, before dropping to a gentle acidic pH to ensure zero lift and zero damage results. Wella Professionals Shinefinity is the perfect addition to any color correction service looking to deliver a soft, balanced finish, within 2 levels of deposit. Zero-lift technology means zero lift to the natural hair and zero damage, preserving natural highs and lows to deliver a beautiful translucent finish. Mixing and application is easy and the processing time ranges from 5-20 minutes, based upon desired end result. Wella Professionals Shinefinity is mixed in a 1:1 mixing ratio, with the Brush & Bowl Activator or the Bottle Activator. Activator choice is simply based upon viscosity preference and application technique.
When hair color is "too light" and the target level is MORE than two levels darker than the starting level, filling the hair is recommended. Fill with Wella Professionals Color Touch to ensure even saturation and balanced color results.
STEP 1: Evaluate the starting level of the hair and select the correct fill formula based upon the targeted end result. Consider hair porosity and density when formulating.
STEP 2: Mix (1) part Wella Professionals Color Touch Shade + (2) parts Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume). 1:2 Mixing Ratio.
STEP 3: Apply custom Color Touch formula to pre-shampooed, towel-dried hair and develop up to twenty minutes.
STEP 4: Rinse Color Touch formula until the water runs clear and towel-dry.
STEP 5: Apply (1) part Color Touch "target shade" formula + (2) parts Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume) and develop for up to twenty minutes. Consider the desired "reflect" in your final result: warm, natural or cool and formulate accordingly.
TARGET DEPTH | FORMULA 1 | FORMULA 2 |
Level 9 | +Apply Target Shade | |
Level 8 | +Apply Target Shade | |
Level 7 | 2 oz. 9/3 | +Apply Target Shade |
Level 6 | +Apply Target Shade | |
Level 5 | +Apply Target Shade | |
Level 4 | +Apply Target Shade | |
Level 3 | +Apply Target Shade | |
Level 2 | 2 oz. 6/77 | +Apply Target Shade |
*Note: This is a guideline chart for Color Touch Filling Techniques, all recipes are a guideline only and should be adjusted depending on hair porosity and desired target shade.
#3: HOW TO FIX COLOR THAT IS "TOO DARK"
Correcting hair color that is too dark involves strategic lightening to achieve soft, balanced results. Product selection, formulation and application all play a key part in success. Reach for Wella Professionals Blondor Multi Blonde Lightener and formulate a mild or maximum lightener recipe to achieve controlled lightening results.
MILD LIGHTENER RECIPE: The best color correction technique to remove old color, banding and color over-deposit is the Wella Professionals Blondor Multi Blonde Powder, Mild Lightener Recipe. A controlled, gentle lift, up to 2-3 levels can be achieved and strategically placed in areas where lightening is desired. HOW TO APPLY: Mix (1) part Wella Professionals Blondor Multi Blonde Powder Lightener, plus (4) parts Wella Professionals Welloxon Perfect Pastel Developer 1.9% (6 volume), or Wella Professionals Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume). If more lift and speed is desired, mix with Wella Professionals Color Touch Emulsion 4% (13 volume) in a 1:4 mixing ratio. Always consider hair health first.
APPLICATION: Apply Blondor Mild Lightener Recipe on dry hair with a color brush for controlled application and isolate sections, as needed.
TIMING: Once application is complete, visually develop with a maximum lightening time up to 50 minutes. Rinse, shampoo and condition. Dry the hair, analyze each section and formulate for your next salon step.
TREAT: If the hair is feeling compromised, reach for an in-salon treatment to lock in moisture and restore the hair from the inside out. One of our favorites is Wella Professionals WellaPlex No. 2 Bond Stabilizer to strengthen the hair bonds and rebalance the pH factor. HOW TO USE: Apply No. 2 Bond Stabilizer to damp hair and leave on for 10 minutes. Rinse well. Shampoo, condition and continue with your salon service.
MAXIMUM LIGHTENER RECIPE: Need more lightness and brightness in your final result? Mix Wella Professionals Blondor Multi Blonde Powder Lightener in its normal manner (if hair health conditions allow for it) to achieve maximum lift. As the mixing ratio diminishes and the developer rises, maximum speed and lightening will result. Remember to consider mixing ratio, developer strength, product saturation and timing. HOW TO APPLY: Mix (1) part Wella Professionals Blondor Multi Blonde Powder Lightener with (1:5 to 2) parts Welloxon Perfect Creme Developer 3% (10 volume), or Welloxon Perfect Creme Developer 6% (20 volume), in a non-metallic bowl.
APPLICATION: Apply Blondor Maximum Lightening Recipe on dry hair, applying to the darkest, most saturated areas first to achieve maximum lift and results.
TIMING: Once application is complete, visually develop with a maximum lightening time up to 50 minutes. Do not use heat. Once desired lightening is achieved, rinse lightener and proceed with salon care services.
#4: HOW TO FIX COLOR THAT IS "TOO WARM"
When hair color is too warm, it may result in unwanted brassiness or undesirable golden tones. Addressing this scenario requires a professional approach to neutralize the excess warmth and achieve a more balanced color result. Our "go-to" solution is Wella Professionals Color Touch. Stylists often use cool-toned shades to counteract the warm hues to restore a natural finish.
Wella Professionals Color Touch is a low maintenance, multi-dimensional, demi-permanent haircolor with a versatile portfolio to create high shine and stunning results. Enriched with natural keratin and ammonia free, Wella Professionals Color Touch promotes artistic creativity and results. Color Touch is the perfect choice in a variety of professional salon scenarios to neutralize and balance. HOW TO MIX: Mix (1) part Color Touch with (2) parts Color Touch Emulsion, 1.9% (6 volume) or 4% (13 volume) and process up to 15 minutes (with heat) or 20 minutes (without heat).
When it comes to neutralizing undesirable warm tones, reach for cool shades within the Wella Professionals Color Touch portfolio. A few of our favorites are: 7/89 Medium Blonde/Pearl Cendre, 10/81 Lightest Blonde/Pearl Ash, 10/6 Lightest Blonde/Violet, 9/97 Very Light Blonde/Cendre, 8/81 Light Blonde/Pearl Ash and 4/71 Medium Brown/Brown Ash.
#5: HOW TO FIX COLOR THAT IS "TOO COOL"
When hair color results are too cool, it can appear flat, ashy or even give off an unwanted green or blue hue. Correcting this scenario requires professional expertise to add warmth and dimension back into the hair. Formulate with Wella Professionals Color Touch in warm toned shades to counteract the cool and achieve a more balanced, natural looking result. When it comes to balancing cool tones a few of our favorites are: Color Touch 10/3 Lightest Blonde/Gold, 9/73 Very Light Blonde/Brown Gold, 7/97 and Medium Blonde/Cendre Brown, 6/73.
Mastering the 5 techniques to fix color corrections requires a tailored approach to achieve a beautiful, balanced result. This expertise not only enhances the professional skill set but also ensures client satisfaction and loyalty. Manage salon time and client expectations with every color correction scenario. Take salon guests on a step by step journey, sharing the "why" behind each process and trust Wella Professionals to deliver beautiful color, every time.
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