Blonding & Toning Tips

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06.01.2020

Blonding & Toning Tips

Since launching Blondor Toners, they have quickly become a MUST-HAVE for stylists! We are sharing formulas and step-by-steps from Wella Chief Blonding Officer Zach Mesquit and Wella Global Ambassadors, Briana Cisneros & Ryan Weeden. See how each artist uses their own signature #PROtechnique to create 3 looks: an icy platinum color, a modern shag with foilayage, and a dimensional balayage.

Wella Chief Blonding Officer, Zach Mesquit

Zach’s Model: Natural 7 with a small orange band at the regrowth. He toned the top half of the hair before his demonstration so you can see the tone he will achieve on the bottom section.

Zach’s #PROformula:

Base: Blondor Multi Blonde Powder + Extra Cool + 20vol at a 1:1.5 ratio.
Band Removal: Blondor Multi Blonde Powder + 10 vol
Mids & Ends: Blondor Soft Blonde Cream + 6 vol
Roots Toner: Blondor Toners Lightest Natural /03 + Pale Platinum /18 (1:3) + Pastel Developer
Mids & Ends Toner: Blondor Toners Lightest Natural /03 + Pale Platinum /18 (1:3) + 20 vol to cut warmth
Styling: EIMI Thermal Image & EIMI Oil Spritz

Zach’s Tips:

Be patient! During toning, he waited a full 10 minutes for this model but if there was additional warmth, he would process Blondor toners up to 30 minutes.
Do not rinse out prematurely for fear of the toners going too dark while it’s oxidizing on the hair.
Being a pastel toner, there will be some fading but since these are permanent toners, these last much longer.

Wella Global Ambassador, Briana Cisneros

Briana’s Model was given a beautiful curtain fringe and color.

Briana’s #PROformula:

Briana’s fringe coloring tips:

Cut the curtain fringe before the color to establish the guide for color placement.
Leaving the center of the fringe without lightener and highlighting only the midlengths to ends
Take the rounds of the head into consideration, this will prevent the blonde from looking too striped or thick.
Slightly tease the sections of the fringe before applying the lightener.
Only applying the lightener from the round of the head and below. This will establish your color guide for the highlights throughout the entire application.
Section diagonal back on the sides into the crown to create more depth when you are teasing fine weaves.
When working into the crown of the head, you will never apply lightener higher than the foiled sections in the fringe.

Wella Global Ambassador, Ryan Weeden

Ryan gave his Natural 5 Model a dimensional blonde with a root shadow in one session!

Ryan’s #PROformula:

Root Shadow: Color Touch 7/71 + 6/0 (2:1) + 5 vol
Teasylights: Blondor Multi Blonde Powder + 6 vol
Toner: Color Touch 10/81 + 10/01 + 5vol
Styling: EIMI Root Shoot & EIMI Stay Firm

Dimensional Blonde Tips:

Hairline – go through the entire hairline to create dimension with microlights. No teasing should be used because you want to have these microlights as close to the hairline as possible.
Around the perimeter, use a tail comb and pull out the smallest section of hair around the hairline, versus taking out a large slice. Then weave the tiny section and apply lightener in a foil, this is your micro-light.
For the money piece fringe – 1 micro-weave followed by two back to back micro-slices. These are the only three foils that will show lightness from the scalp. The rest of the foils in the crown will begin teasylights.
To section your money piece, look for the client’s natural parting and section a triangle to the temples, as if you are going to cut a fringe.
Always drop the fringe section once you have your microlight foils in to see if you need to add more brightness around the face.
When transitioning to the crown of the head, slice a fine to medium diagonal back section and tease 50% of the hair down, then apply the lightener.

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